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Dressage is what many people would consider the Ballet of the horse world. What appears beautiful and effortless to the audience is in fact an achievement in art and athleticism requiring years of development and dedication for both horse and rider. Dressage is performed in a 20 x 60 meter arena with a set of letters that designate where movements are to be executed; the letters also assist the rider in judging specific distances, such as the size of a circle. In addition, lower level tests may also be adjusted and performed in what is referred to as the short arena, which is 20 x 40 meters.Â
Dressage is trained and shown in specific levels which build on each other and which reflect the development of the skills and abilities of both the horse and rider. The tests ridden in shows are used as a measure of the correctness of the horse’s (and rider’s) schooling. There are six standard levels (Introductory Level thru Fourth Level) and four International levels (Prix St George, Intermediaire I and II, and Grand Prix). Tests are prepared and distributed by USA Equestrian, and are rewritten every few years.
Each level has a specified purpose which is stated on the test form. In addition, each movement in the test has a description of what the movement is and what elements are needed to perform it correctly. Scoring for the tests is based on both individual movements and collective marks. In addition, certain movements have coefficients that make them more important. The scoring scale is as follows:
10-Excellent, 9-Very good, 8-Good, 7-Fairly good, 6-Satisfactory, 5-Sufficient, 4-Insufficient, 3-Fairly bad, 2-Bad, 1-Very bad, 0-Not performed
The collective marks are based on:
Gaits–the freedom and regularity of the horse’s movement
Impulsion–the horse’s desire to move forward, elasticity of steps, roundness
Submission–the horse’s attention and confidence, harmony with rider, lightness of movements, and acceptance of the bit
Rider’s position and seat–correctness and effect of the aids
Following is a breakdown of the lower levels and what is expected for proper performance and proficiency at that level.   A riding whip, not to exceed 48″ including the lash, and spurs are allowed and/or required at all levels, though spurs are usually not used in Introductory level work; spurs are optional through Prix St George, but mandatory for Intermediaire and above. A snaffle bridle is used in the AHSA levels (Introductory through Fourth Level), and a double bridle is used in the International levels (Prix St George through Grand Prix). The double bridle may be used optionally beginning at Fourth Level.
Introductory Level (2 tests)–All work at this level is done at the walk and trot, with no cantering. Emphasis is on beginning to develop correct bend, relaxing and submission, and the horse’s understanding of basic rider aids. Movements required are Medium walk, Free walk, and Rising trot; all work is performed in straight lines, including the long diagonals, and on 20 m circles. The horse is expected to carry himself forward, showing acceptance of the bit and the rider’s aids.
Training Level (3 tests)–As stated by the AHSA: “The purpose of the Training Level Dressage Tests is to confirm that the horse’s muscles are supple and loose, and that it moves freely forward in a clear and steady rhythm, accepting contact with the bit.” Canter work on 20 m circles is added at this level. Either sitting or rising trot may be used when trot work is required. The horse is also asked to stretch down at the trot, and make changes of bend at the trot rather than going through the walk.
First Level (4 tests)–As stated by the AHSA: The purpose of the First Level Dressage Tests is to confirm that the horse, in addition to the requirements of Training Level, has developed thrust (pushing power) and achieved a degree of balance and throughness.” Trot work on 10 m circles and 20 m serpentines is added, as well as trot lengthenings. Lengthenings are done rising, and later sitting; the remainder of trot work is done sitting. Canter work is on 15 m circles and straight lines, with lengthening also introduced at the canter. Leg yield and change of canter lead through trot are also introduced by the end of the First Level tests.
English Habit
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There are certain factors you have to consider when purchasing a pony. First, remember that it involves a long-term commitment, so make sure you make the right selections. Take it slow in hunting for info per everything you’ve got to know about owning and looking after a pony. Know what kind of pony that suits your personality and prepare plenty of room for your pony to move around.
Here are some extra tips for you to know before you buy a horse.
Be firm and stick to your choice and do not be lured or influenced by your seller. Remember that convincing folk to buy their pony and make money are their concerns. , don’t be put under pressure to buy until you find the right pony for you.
One of the best techniques of getting the right one is to lease the pony first before purchasing it.
2. Don’t let your seller feel too comfortable that you can afford his horse. Do not show your seller that you like the pony so much in that you are going to take the pony home irrespective of what. This could save your cash by leaving the option for negotiation open.
If you are buying a pony for your youngster, ensure that he understands the importance of not showing excitement to the seller.
4. Make it clear to the vendor that you will not buy a pony if the coach does not approve of it.
5. Then, ask your instructor to check the horse. But be prepared to pay further charges for your instructor’s time and experience, which is in turn worth paying for. Your instructor’s information and educated opinion can save you more in the long run.
Estimate the sales price your seller will be offering before you make an offer. You can ask your instructor of what he or she suspects is a fair offer. In estimating the sales price, consider the present conditions, the time the pony has been for sale and the vendor’s private monetary circumstances. Perhaps you can include in your guesstimate how much the seller likes you and thinks you may offer a good home for his/her horse.
7. For example, ask your seller if he/she would agree to deliver the pony for no additional fee.
8. You need to also remember that you will have to pay for sales commission, which often runs from 10-20% of the purchase price.
9. When purchasing a horse ensure that it’s been checked by an independent third party vet. This is a crucial step that most buyers overlook. If possible, attend the vet check yourself. Take notice the vet’s findings because in the end you may be the one to decide whether to buy the horse.
10. When you eventually decide to buy the pony, make efforts to put the transaction between you and the vendor on a contract on paper. Ensure contract. Make sure that the contract clearly states all the terms as well as the guaranties of your purchase.
About the writer : Lisa Blackstone is an equestrian and an expert in providing guidelines and tips on pony riding. She hosts the Pony and Rider Radio Show in Atlanta, Georgia, where she discusses information relevant to the newcomer. For more tips and suggestions go to Dressage Saddles and Horse Riding Lesson.
Pat Brooks
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Funky beats and stylish babes to match. R.I.P Michael Jackson whose voice and lyrics sampled in this track totally make it one of the best Dance Tracks ever.
Duration : 3 min 55 sec
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I had a pretty bad accident and injured my back really bad. It’s REALLY weak now, and I was wondering if you knew any exercises for it?
And i’m going to be getting a dressage saddle soon so what are your favorite brands? And what should you look for in one? I can only afford a used one but yeah 
1. Trunk lifts. That’s pretty much the one way to start strengthening it. But be very easy on it. Once you mess it up enough you can only go downhill!
2. My favorite is the Hennig. They are very expensive though so. You want to see that the seat feels like a teacup. The cantle and pommel should be pretty close to you, you can use the large cantle and pommel to better communicate with your weight to your horse. Also you want a decent sized knee roll, but the knee roll shouldn’t be under your knee, it should be in front.
http://www.pelham-saddlery.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/1111.jpg This knee roll is placed to encourage the leg to go down and wrap around the horse, without putting more pressure on your leg.
http://wellingtonequestrian.co.nz/catalog/images/ADS.jpg This saddle has hardly any knee roll, and what is does have is a bit wide. This will make your knee want to poke out a bit rather than be against the saddle and guiding the horse. It’s seat is also quite a bit flatter than the other.
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